The Tyrolese (or Norwegian) stitch is one of the most laborious operations. This starts once the upper, skilfully pulled and nailed on the form, has obtained its shape. Three stitches are required to complete this complex operation.
The craftsman himself determines the pitch of the stitching visible on the outside, deciding the pace of the various stitches which decorate and join together the parts making up the shoe. Before beginning this operation, a preliminary phase is required during which a number of component parts are prepared to build the shoe:
1) preparation of the footbed: from the leather back (the thickest and strongest part of the hide) the footbed is obtained. A special machine is used to make a cut along its perimeter, called channelling machine.
2) from the back, 2 sole shaped pieces are also obtained, which joined 2 by 2 form the midsoles.
Once the preparations of the components have been completed, the actual machining operations are performed: the first stitch joins the upper, previously nailed to the form, to the footbed.
The yarn passes through the upper and is positioned inside the channelling machine. The second stitch joins the upper, after being overturned externally, to the leather midsole. Finally, the third stitch joins the upper to a rubber midsole on which is fitted the sole using specific adhesives.